MOTT 32
There’s a kind of hush that falls as you step into Mott 32. Not silence, exactly, but something more intriguing. Smoky shadows, low amber light, with the soft murmur of conversation in the background. It’s too faint to follow – but loud enough to spark your curiosity. It’s like you’ve slipped through a secret door and into a world of grandeur, sophistication, and Chinese refinement — both ancient and modern — where every detail feels timeless.
The first time I stepped into the restaurant, I was struck by its sheer scale and presence. It was just after sunset. The space was dark and moody, with candlelight flickering across polished wood and stained glass. Instantly, I was drawn in.
THE DESIGN
Mott 32’s design is a masterful blend of East and West – a culturally rich and artistically expressive visual feast. We’ll get to the food part of the feast later. Created by the acclaimed Joyce Wang Studio, the space seamlessly fuses a lofty New York industrial vibe with the grand cityscape of Hong Kong.
Everything feels elevated, intentional, with a subtle air of mystery. Rich wood textures, carved details, lampshades crafted of stained glass all whisper a quiet luxurious discretion. It’s sleek, modern, and elegant. Just like a gripping novel intoxicates you page by page, this place is deeply seductive.
Named after 32 Mott Street in New York City – the address of the city’s first Chinese convenience store dating back to 1891 – the restaurant pays homage to those humble beginnings while reimagining Chinese cuisine for a contemporary, global audience. It was that family-run, New York shop that became the cornerstone of what would grow into one of the world’s most vibrant Chinatowns. It’s a rich legacy, and one that pays tribute to Hong Kong’s culinary traditions reimagined through the lens of the modern Chinese city.
With eight locations across the globe – from Hong Kong to Dubai – Mott 32 continues to expand its reach, bringing modern Cantonese elegance to new cities with each opening.
Perched on the 73rd floor of the Address Beach Resort – where the sky meets the sea – the restaurant commands breathtaking views overlooking the Arabian Gulf and Dubai skyline. I found myself drawn to the expansive terrace, where the vast outdoor space contrasts beautifully with the restaurant’s intimate, shadowed interiors. It’s here that the cityscape becomes part of the story, adding yet another layer to the entire experience.
THE CHEF
When I was invited to the restaurant for a peek into the kitchen, I was excited, humbled, and honored. Stepping into a Chinese kitchen would be a first for me. My hopes on this visit were simple but ambitious – to uncover some of the secrets behind Mott 32’s philosophy of farm-to-table Cantonese cuisine and how it’s been refined over the generations.
Chef Frankie Yang Tao greeted me at the entrance with a calm, assured presence. The kind that comes from years of mastering both tradition and technique.
Originally from Nanjing in Eastern China, Chef Frankie has spent over 16 years honing his craft in traditional Chinese cuisine. The talented chef and dim sum master has worked in some of the city’s most renowned kitchens. His focus on exceptional produce and time-honored techniques have made him a force in the region’s Chinese dining scene. And with a deep understanding of Cantonese culinary traditions, he has earned deep respect for his expertise.
After a warm welcome, chef led me into the heart of the kitchen. Suddenly, found myself immersed into a world of precision, speed, and quiet intensity. The energy was electric, yet the same hushed aura of mystery I felt when I first walked into the restaurant lingered. It was deliberate, focused, and intentional. There was an unspoken choreography, and I was ready to follow its rhythm.
DIM SUM
We began at the Dim Sum station. A space set apart from the rest of the kitchen, it was almost like its own world. The energy here was calm and focused, it felt almost meditative. It was a vivid contrast to the fire and speed in the main kitchen. Trays of perfectly formed dumplings lined the counter – each one a palm-sized parcel crafted with care – ready to be steamed and served. You can find dim sum classics like the King Prawn Har Gow. Or more contemporary flavors like Spinach, Scallop, Prawn, Black Caviar, and Charcoal Wagyu Beef Siu Mai.
This is where tradition and technique come together. Chef Frankie walked me through the philosophy behind the cuisine: rooted in Cantonese tradition, with touches of Beijing and Szechuan influences woven throughout the menu.
I’m not exaggerating when I say that it’s one of the most divine little morsels that’s ever graced my palate.
We moved onto the WAGYU BEEF PUFF – a dish I had tried on my very first visit to Mott 32. To say that it left a lasting impression is an understatement. A refined take on a Cantonese classic, this dish is a petite work of art. The delicate pastry – made up of finely layered shreds – is baked to a golden crisp. It’s so utterly light, it almost disappears on your tongue. A cube of tender Australian Wagyu beef is nestled within, slow-cooked with traditional Cantonese seasonings that balance a deep umami richness with just a touch of sweetness.
Watching this dish come together behind the scenes gave me a whole new appreciation for the process. What an honor it was to have prepared it in alongside chef Frankie. Before we toasted to our first bite, I closed my eyes to set the scene, fully aware that I was about to sink my teeth into something exquisite.
The pastry – light, golden, and crisp – shattered delicately the moment I bit into it. It was one of those culinary-aha-moments that gave way to the deep, savory, melting richness of the beef inside. I’m not exaggerating when I say that it’s one of the most divine little morsels that’s ever graced my palate. Yes, there were ecstatic murmurs. One bite, and you understand why it’s become a signature.
WAGYU SHORTRIBS
We moved onto Australian Spice Wagyu Shortribs. Marinated overnight in a secret (and sticky) spice blend, these ridiculously tender short ribs are slow-braised until they slide off the bone. Did I ask chef for the marinade recipe? Yes. Did he give it to me? No.
A quick flambé before plating was the final chef’s kiss. The smell was just insane. I stepped in to add the garnish. Careful to keep a light hand so not to disturb the lone short rib that was sitting pretty in all its glory, waiting to be devoured.
From Wagyu short rib to APPLEWOOD SMOKED BLACK COD, I was excited to try our next dish. With so many variations of black cod in the region, I wanted to see what made this one so special. Trust me when I say that this one did not disappoint. Delicately fried until golden, the tender black cod is bathed in a rich, glossy sauce infused with applewood smoke.
Chef Frankie pumped a glass cloche with applewood smoke, sealing in that distinct smokey scent. Note to self: do not try this at home. We rushed into the dining room to taste our creation, piping hot and cloaked in a haze of mystery. The smoke unfurled with fury as the cloche was lifted, revealing the glistening cod underneath. It was quite the show indeed.
APPLEWOOD ROASTED 42 DAYS PEKING DUCK
The grand finale of our dining experience was none other than Mott 32’s legendary Applewood Roasted 42 Days Peking Duck. With a dedicated space in the kitchen reserved for its preparation, this dish is treated with the respect that’s usually reserved for ritual.
It’s a nod to the centuries-old tradition from which it originates. Rooted in imperial China, Peking Duck was once a centerpiece of royal banquets, prized for its crisp skin and tender meat. And above all, the precision of carving.
When the ceremonial duck trolley was rolled to our table, a silent drumroll echoed throughout the room. It was the moment I had been waiting for. I genuinely questioned whether I could eat another bite. But here I was, soaking up every second of the ritual about to unfold before my feasting eyes.
The meat was everything I didn’t know I loved about duck. Smoked with dried applewood and roasted to a crisp, golden perfection, the duck flesh was tender, rich and flavorful beneath the glistening skin.
It’s so crisp, you can hear the crackle through every slice. Beside it are the usual suspects of freshly steamed pancakes, thinly sliced cucumber, scallions, and raw cane sugar. A house-made hoisin sauce sits in an artistic swirl of flavors, waiting to tie it all together.
Carved table-side, this dish is as much performance as it is a celebration of culinary tradition. My sources call it a centerpiece fit for royalty. And I confirm this to be a fact.
A DESSERT TO REMEMBER
As I was getting ready to leave, Chef Frankie called me back in. He held up a plate with what looked like the shiniest red apple I had ever seen. Glistening under the light, the apple looked too perfect to touch. But make no mistake, this was no fruit. It was Mott 32’s Red Apple Compote with Mascarpone Mousse and Coconut Ice Cream.
A special dessert crafted for Chinese New Year, it looked like a fairytale and tasted even better. The white chocolate glaze gave way to a core of caramelized apple, wrapped in a layer of vanilla mascarpone mousse. A sprig of mint and a chocolate stem gave it the look of something just plucked from a storybook tree. At the base was a tender coconut sponge, balanced by a quenelle of coconut ice cream.
I smacked my spoon against the ruby red apple shell, shattering it to its core. I think you can guess what happens next.
A special dessert crafted for Chinese New Year, it looked like a fairytale and tasted even better.
Special Thanks to Chef Frankie Yang Tao, and Mohammed Zahid, the team at Mott 32 Dubai, and Sunset Hospitality
Words — Lidija Abu Ghazaleh
Photography — Esma Gok
Glam — Maria Doyle at Celui
Assistant — Belinda Lee